RESTAURANT GUIDE OCTOBER 2005

The very best in Atlanta.

WORDS BY TONY WARE

Piebar  $$
2160 Monroe Dr, Midtown. 404-815-1605
FUNKY CASUAL

From the dynamos behind One. Midtown Kitchen and Two. Urban Licks comes Piebar—casual event dining within the refurbished, retro-futuristic 1962 Trust Company Bank building. The gourmet pizza and anitpasti parlor has an exhibition kitchen-inthe-round as well as theatrically lit outdoor dining. Piebar is a feast for the eyes as well as the belly— kind of Cirque du Soleil meets salami. Trailblazing chef Richard Blais helped conceive aspects of the Mediterranean-inspired menu, so expect an eccentric, invigorating foodie twang that extends to standout desserts such as olive oil and black pepper gelati, and a Ferrero Rocher frozen piebar. A wine list with only two price points complements well.

MIDTOWN/ANSLEY PARK

Toast $$
817 West Peachtree St Ste E125. 404-815-9243
FUNKY CASUAL

Nestled in the shadow of the stately Biltmore Building, a little off the main drag, Toast concentrates on reasonable prices for seasonal, house-made New American delicacies served in an immaculate loft of pronounced color, blond wood and brushed metal. A paradigm of upscale casual dining, Toast’s fall menu celebrates the smoky, peppery and crisp flavors of earthy produce.

Ola $
1197 Peachtree St Ste 100.404-892-9292
CASUAL

A restaurant retooled to complement the neighboring spice market-themed Shout, Ola is a Latin American/Spanish tapas/ taquería hybrid from Tom Catherall (of Twist, Prime, Noche). Spurred by travels through Argentina, Chile and Barcelona, Ola’s chefs offer a multi-faceted, affordable tasting menu of robust, flirty flavors in an equally lively setting.

Tin Drum Asia Café $
88 Fifth St. 404-881-1368
CASUAL

Located in Georgia Tech’s streamlined Technology Square, Tin Drum Asia Café caters to an international student clientele—as well as globally savvy business customers—with hearty made-to-order portions for scanty budgets. Bustling counters and conversations fill the chic post-industrial space, as do briskly accented foods from China, Thailand, Vietnam and Japan.

One. Midtown Kitchen $$$
559 Dutch Valley Rd. 404-892-4111
FUNKY/DRESSY CASUAL

A renovated warehouse, One. Midtown Kitchen’s inky, sleek space is dotted with flirtatious flourishes and offers compelling views of either the Atlanta skyline or the semi-circular open kitchen that plays laboratory for executive chef Richard Blais. Blais’ heady foams, bold emulsions, giddy vapors and racy reductions further invigorate the glam bistro fare of this urbane urban environment.

WEST MIDTOWN

The Food Studio $$$
887 West Marietta St Ste K102. 404-815-6677
DRESSY CASUAL/DRESSY

A retrofitted manufacturing plant that still has some of its antiquated machinery on show, the Food Studio is yin and yang—all masculine post-industrial angles basking in soft candlelight. And the AAA-Four Diamond New American cuisine is purely sensual. With a newly installed, locally seasoned chef updating the seasonal fare with verve, flavors are vibrantly and carefully balanced between delicate and zesty.

Nan Thai Fine Dining $$$
1350 Spring St NW. 404-870-9933
DRESSED UP/SMART CASUAL

Marking the gateway to burgeoning West Midtown’s gleaming developments, Nan offers an equally dramatic, contemporary update on Asian dining with a soaring dining room and impeccably plated cuisine. But Nan isn’t all deft presentation. Within this exhibition hall of elegance, the flavors of Thailand are perfectly balanced then made transcendent with creative updates.

Café Sampan $
1198 Howell Mill Rd. 404-367-8383
CASUAL

A pop art take on both environment and ingredients, Café Sampan boasts a vivacious setting and equally animated servers for modernized Chinese. A counterpoint to its opulent neighbor Sampan, this café kicks out Shanghai dim sum favorites with facets that pulse like the spirited music. The setting is breezy and flavors brisk.

BUCKHEAD

Atlanta Fish Market $$$
265 Pharr Rd NE. 404-262-3165
CASUAL TO DRESSY

Hard to miss with its arcing 30-foot copper fish sculpture, Buckhead Life’s Atlanta Fish Market is also hard to resist, offering the largest fresh seafood selection in the Southeast. Long Island Blue Point oysters, Alaskan snow crab, Key West stone crab, Maine lobster or over 20 types of fish served in several styles—just a few reasons it’s worth a swim upstream.

BluePointe $$$
3455 Peachtree Rd. 404-237-9070
DRESSY/SMART CASUAL

Dramatic, steely-yet-sensual, BluePointe is a fashionista mainstay. Set among striking curves and a 26-foot façade of effervescently curtained windows, an equally mosaic menu of Pacific Rim-flecked American fusion is spotlighted. Nut and spice-crusted seafood stands out. The airy, radiant space is equally popular among those looking just for flavored martinis and mingling.

Twist $$
3500 Peachtree Rd NE. 404-869-1191
DRESSY/FUNKY CASUAL

Fusion is the key word at Twist. Part nightclub, part tapas bar, part sushi bar, Twist puts a, well, twist on the type of restaurant expected in a shopping mall. The décor is curvaceous and hyper-saturated, and the aromatic cuisine is sleek, with a menu drawn from primarily Asian influences. Five-dollar martinis seal the deal.

The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton $$$$
3434 Peachtree Rd NE. 404-237-2700
DRESSED-UP

The launching pad for some of Atlanta’s most lauded chefs, The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton celebrates demure indulgence. From the plush upholstery to the excellent service to the sublime amalgam of French and Asian nuances, The Dining Room is as impeccable as it is innovative.

10 Degrees South $$$
4183 Roswell Rd NE. 404-705-8870
CASUAL TO DRESSY

10 Degrees South brings a little taste of Cape Town to this town, showcasing South African cuisine, which draws from French, Portuguese, Dutch, German, Malaysian and British influences to devise its signature savory yet sweet seasonings. Within this airy-in-front, earthy-in-back den, there is a continuity of spicy, meaty fare. Signature sponge cake Diane’s Delight is not to be missed.

Tavern at Phipps $$
3500 Peachtree Rd NE. 404-814-9640
DRESSY CASUAL

Power-lunching stockbrokers and dating couples looking to raise their stock populate this cozy bar and grill. Whether taking a break from a long day of shopping or sparking off an evening, the well-heeled crowds congregate to drink in the solid fare and the flourishes of the award-winning show bartenders.

Donlan and Greenbaum’s New York Prime $$$$
3424 Peachtree Rd NE. 404-846-0644
DRESSY CASUAL/DRESSY

This restaurant—which is almost a cathedral to steak—serves manly portions of impeccably aged USDA Prime beef. Succulent cuts of surgically seared meat are the centerpiece, though lobster, oysters, sea bass, lamb and cheese-mashed potatoes are no slouch. Service is equally precise.

INMAN PARK/ PONCEY-HIGHLANDS

Rathbun’s $$$
112 Krog St Ste R. 404-524-8280
DRESSY

Rathbun’s serves a melting pot of modern American cuisine, using organic ingredients in a post-industrial environment. A menu of Small Plates, Raw Plates, Big Plates and Second Mortgage Plates offers nouveau standards that have absorbed Southern, Southwestern and European influences without losing heartland heartiness.

Zuma $$
701 Highland Ave. 404-522-2872
ANYTHING GOES/

DRESSY CASUAL A sleek, lacquered lair decked out in glossy black and vigorous red and dotted with silver LCD screens, this Inman Park establishment celebrates the noble traditions of sake and sushi. The velvety nigiri, sashimi and rolls are first-rate, and the menu describes almost 30 highly aromatic cold sakes with a reporter’s eye .

Eclipse di Sol $$
640 N Highland Ave. 404-724-0711
CASUAL

Sister eatery to tapas pioneer Eclipse di Luna, Eclipse di Sol is as different from that restaurant as night is to day. A farmhouse friendly eatery with an unhurried air, Eclipse di Sol features the Mediterranean-informed cuisine of Patti Roth, who balances genial standards with bright, spry counterpoints whenever possible. In addition, breakfast is continually offered.

DECATUR/EAST ATLANTA

Sushi Avenue $$$
308 W Ponce De Leon Ave Ste C. 404-378-8448
CASUAL

Sushi Avenue has two locations within walking distance of one another in downtown Decatur due to the sushi and Japanese noodle houses’ unflagging popularity. Families and neighbors meet up for strikingly fresh fish, weightless tempura and premium sake. Fancy plating is eschewed for pristine flavor profiles, and the mood is as cordial as the food fulfilling.

Taqueria del Sol $
359 W Ponce De Leon. 404-377-7668
ANYTHING GOES

With a menu as streamlined as its long stainless steel counter, Taqueria del Sol uses simplicity to its advantage, making sure no selection is poor. From the turnip greens and tres salsas to the chicken, catfish, pork or brisket tacos (with tangy toppings), flavors are spirited within the buoyant former service station patio setting.

Iris $$
1314 Glenwood Ave SE. 404-221-1300
SMART CASUAL

Located beside East Atlanta’s bohemian crossroads, unassuming Iris offers personable New American cuisine for urban pioneers. A former filling station, this sleek glass-and-concrete block of a globally informed bistro is a stickler for the details when it comes to nouveau interpretations of lively, comforting selections, with free-form ravioli a standout.

OUTSIDE THE PERIMETER

Sia’s $$$
10305 Medlock Bridge Rd, Duluth. 770-497-9727
CASUAL TO DRESSY

Though located in a mini-mall, there is nothing cookie cutter about Sia’s award-winning approach to Southwestern cuisine with Asian inflections. The warm tones of the sophisticated dining room extend to the dishes— artfully drawn, silkily precise fusions of playful full-bodied creations. Service is conversational yet keen-eyed.

Grace 17:20 $$$
5155 Peachtree Pkwy, Norcross. 678-421-1720
DRESSY CASUAL/DRESSY

A posh restaurant within a Main Street-themed shopping center, Grace 17:20 offers pristine yet rustic flavors. The antique-dotted interior has a light jazzy brush of earthiness to match the regional American cuisine. Seasonal Southern ingredients make for rich, velvety and inviting pairings.

Trattoria Monaco $$$
5530 Windward Pkwy Ste 250, Alpharetta. 770-664-0056
CASUAL

The richly toned end of a shopping strip on Alpharetta’s main dining drag, Trattoria Monaco offers modern Italian fare, while maintaining its gentility. The kitchen absorbs traditional influences and returns exuberant contemporary, architectural dishes. The elements are as progressive as they are playful and stay true to the essence of friendly and filling Italian.