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WORDS BY CATHERINE ARNOLD

The Mansion on Turtle
Creek’s executive chef,
Dean Fearing

A FLAIR FOR FOOD

Dallas’ top chef Dean Fearing reveals the city’s greatest dining delights.

Steeped in his Southern grandmothers’ bacon grease, fried eggs and impeccably seasoned mashed potatoes, star chef Dean Fearing grew up with an interest in the flavors of the Southwest. This love of food brought him first to the Culinary Institute of America, then to French sauce-based cooking at Cincinnati’s Maisonette and finally to Dallas, where he and a few other chefs brought New Southwest food to great fame in the mid-’80s.

Recognizing Fearing’s role in presenting that regional combination of chilies, fresh salsas, ground-corn tortillas and other Mexican influences, with Southern touches such as flaky biscuits and shellfish, the James Beard Foundation awarded Fearing the title of “Best Chef: Southwest” in 1994. The restaurant at which he is executive chef, The Mansion on Turtle Creek (www.mansiononturtlecreek.com), has been nominated several times for Beard awards.

Café Express is one of top
chef Dean Fearing’s favorite
places to grab a bite.

On days off, Fearing and family head out... to eat and spend time around town. Follow their lead for great tastes and recreation in Dallas.

Where do you chow down on days off?

“These days, because I have a five year old and a seven year old, our restaurant choices are decidedly kid-friendly. However, they’ve been exposed to a range of foods that I certainly didn’t know at their age— sushi, for instance. When we do go for sushi, we head to Yamaguchi’s (214-350-8660). It’s in our neighborhood, and the owner was a protégé at another popular Dallas sushi place, Mac’s.

“Another kid-friendly choice we love is Primo’s (www.primosdallas. com), our neighborhood Tex-Mex restaurant and a watering hole on the Dallas restaurant workers’ scene. I’ve spent a lot of time there over the years; my wife and I even met there! It’s versatile—they have late-night foods, and our kids love it. We’re also regulars at our friend Robert Del Grande’s Cafe Express (www.cafe-express.com)—a chef-owned chain in Houston, Dallas and Fort Worth where we can get fresh salads, soups and pastas.”

Where do you go for breakfast?

“To Mecca (214-352-0051), where the employees have all been there for 20 to 30 years, and they know the regulars. It’s a friendly blue-collar place, and we can get huge pancakes and other egg dishes. We also like the huevos rancheros at Primo’s. The Original Pancake House (214-528-7215) in our neighborhood is great, too. We also know everybody who works there and like their waffles and pancakes.”

George restaurant.

Right: The State Fair of Texas welcomes around three million people every year.

What else drives you into a restaurant?

“We like to frequent our friends’ restaurants, to hang out and chat and see what they’re cooking. It’s always a plus when restaurants open in our own neighborhood—that’s been a great development in Dallas, the opening of more restaurants within neighborhoods, not just on major streets. As in any city, the excitement involves finding out what’s new in town and trying the new restaurants.

“Among neighborhood restaurants, we like George (214-366-9100), owned by George Brown, who used to work with me. Another favorite is Iris (214-352-2727), owned by Russ Hodges; he worked with my friend [chef] Stephan Pyles. It’s great to see chefs being able to expand and start their own places. Likewise, Jim Severson opened Sevy’s Grill (www.sevys.com)—another great restaurant. We also like Tim Bryan’s Standard (214-720-9292). Lola (214-855-0700), which has an incredible wine cellar, has one of the greatest wine lists in town.”

What’s another don’t-miss food option in Dallas?

“The State Fair of Texas (www.bigtex.com) takes place just once a year, in late September and October; that’s always a good time to jump on a plane down here. Every year, I can hardly wait to get out to the fairgrounds. The first thing I have is a Fletcher’s corny dog with lots of yellow mustard and a Shiner Bock beer. Then, I have waffles topped with sliced strawberries and whipped cream, and later a big barbecued turkey leg.

“All that stuff in the food arcade—chili parlor, cinnamon buns, the Frito pie—it’s no good for you, but those options come only once a year and are probably what my kids will always remember about the fair. Being a chef, I’d be missing out if I didn’t enjoy all kinds of food. Fair food brings as much enjoyment as sitting down to a meal at The Mansion on Turtle Creek—and that is something for me to say!”

AirTran Airways provides daily flights to Dallas Ft Worth. Visit www.airtran.com for more details.

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