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Hair-raising Hampden

Be prepared for a touch of the bizarre in this eccentric corner of Baltimore.
September 2006

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Hampden, Baltimore

words by > Jennifer Plum Auvil

Hair-Raising Hampdem

*Talking to CNN’s resident space expert —a science buff with a clear mission.

While Baltimore’s Inner Harbor appeals to tourists, the small neighborhood of Hampden is more like the setting of a John Waters fi lm, equally eccentric and kitsch. It’s no wonder that this working-class neighborhood is reminiscent of Waters’ fi lms—parts of Hairspray were fi lmed right in the ’hood.

Artists and entrepreneurs have been snatching up homes and retail space to cater to a small, trendy clientele. And it’s not just the hipsters who are heading to Hampden for shopping and good food. As the neighborhood expands, so does its appeal to a wider audience. Suddenly this odd little place is in the midst of an artsy rebirth, and everyone in town wants to be in on the fun.

Quirky annual events draw lots of visitors, from the lighted homes that make up Baltimore’s own “Miracle on 34th Street” every Christmas, to June’s outrageous HonFest that celebrates the beehive hairdo and the Baltimore accents known around here as “Bawlmerese.” But on a daily basis, the center of the activity is known simply as “The Avenue,” the stretch of 36th Street that runs between Falls Road and Keswick Road, and houses nearly 150 shops.

Before you start exploring, fuel up for your jaunt at new lunch spot Soup’s On at Rose’s Cookies (842 W 36th St). The changing menu highlights the best of the season with homemade salads and soups, and piping hot chicken pot pies. Save room for one of Rose’s already legendary cupcakes.

Clothes hounds and trendsetters should visit Oh Said Rose (840 W 36th St) and Doubledutch (3616 Falls Rd). Both shops carry indie-chic apparel and accessories that you won’t fi nd at your standard mall shops, from cocktail dresses to mini skirts, with lots of shoes, bags and jewelry to complete any outfi t.

If you’re more interested in decking out your home than your body, check out newcomer Red Tree (921 W 36th St) for some eclectic furniture and home accessories. Oakenshawe Antiques (1021 W 36th St) carries serious collectibles, while Rediscovered Furniture (1117 W 36th St) offers a wonderful assortment of thrifty fi nds and more contemporary pieces for your home. Watermelon Sugar (3555 Chestnut Ave) is one of the most delicious smelling shops on The Avenue and has a huge choice of lotions and candles as well as other fun home treats.

Ma Petite Shoe (832 W 36th St) combines two favorite indulgences—chocolate and shoes. You can pamper yourself with a chocolate treat while the “fi t experts” size up your feet for the perfect pair of new heels. Down the street, Atomic Books (1100 W 36th St) addresses a different kind of obsession, housing the oddest collection of books around town. You probably won’t fi nd any recent bestsellers here, but there are loads of unique and obscure books, including works by local authors as well as zines, independent comics and unusual gift items.

Once you’re all shopped out, drop your bags off in the car and head to one of the local bars for happy hour and some dinner. Café Hon (1002 W 36th St) is a favorite with Hampden old-timers and newbies looking for some of the authentic Hon charm. The “hon” refers to the term of endearment bestowed on all customers, from the local news anchors to the elderly neighbors stopping by for a slice of pie. The menu highlights diner classics like meat loaf, stew, crab cakes and pie topped with hot fudge concocted from a secret recipe.

The Golden West Café (1105 W 36th St) serves sweet breakfast treats and savory morning tortilla dishes all day long. The New Mexican-inspired menu also features a range of sandwiches, salads and specialties, such as Frito pie and a vegan BBQ riblet sandwich. If there’s a wait, just grab a chair in the smoke-free bar and relax with an organic beer or a frosty concoction before dining.

Holy Frijoles (908 W 36th St) is the neighborhood spot for Mexican food. Nibble on chips and guacamole at the bar or settle in for a feast at a table, but be sure you have a margarita in hand. The house ’rita is perfect, but you’re not likely to fi nd the muddled cucumber margarita on any other menu in town, so that’s defi nitely worth a taste.

With eclectic shops and lots of good eats, Hampden certainly does its part to keep the charm in “Charm City.” To experience the neighborhood for yourself, drop by, drop by HampdenFest on September 16 to enjoy the bands, food and shops.

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