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BY JENN PLUM AUVIL

JOIN BALTIMORE LOCALS AT THEIR FAVORITE SPOTS AND INDULGE IN A DELICIOUS WEEKEND RITUAL.

It’s been said that the true test of a chef’s talent comes down to a simple breakfast dish: scrambled eggs. But in Charm City, chefs have an additional challenge: seamlessly incorporating the region’s choice ingredient, lump crab meat, into the dish. Well, they are more than up to the test—and the following brunch spots prove it. (th ey’ve also mastered pancakes, waffl es, French toast and more.)

When Miss Shirley’s Cafe & Bakery (www.missshirleys. com; 410-889-5272) opened in 2005, it raised the inevitable question: Did the Roland Park neighborhood need another breakfast spot? the answer was a resounding “yes,” as hungry patrons formed a line that snaked into the parking lot on weekends. In 2006, it moved across the street to its current location, keeping the design scheme—bright redand-yellow walls lined with black-and-white photos of the city—and gaining dozens of tables, a cozy waiting area and outdoor seating. Brunch is served all day everyday (7am to 3pm; 3:30pm on weekends), but the weekends are especially popular. Feast on the crab and fried green tomato eggs Benedict or any of the pancakes or waffl es from the griddle.

With a prime location in the Baltimore Museum of Art, Gertrude’s (www.gertrudesbaltimore.com; 410-889-3399) is another great place to fuel up. While Chef/Owner John Shields is a local food celebrity, it’s the restaurant’s namesake,

Shields’ grandmother, who deserves a toast for teaching him how to cook. the Chesapeake-style menu has two daily crab cake variations (one traditional, one du jour)—and then there’s crab hash, crab soup and a lovely crab quiche. A helpful hint: Make reservations for brunch (weekends from 10:30am to 3pm), especially if you want a table on the café’s stone patio overlooking the sculpture garden.

An outdoor corner sidewalk table at Bolton Hill’s b bistro (www.b-bistro.com; 410-383-8600) is also a hot commodity on Sundays from 10am to 2pm, off ering a great view of the charming neighborhood’s historic row homes. But inside is just as lovely, with expansive windows and high ceilings that create an open and airy feeling. Well-heeled neighbors cozy up on the long leather banquette alongside students from the local art institute and musicians from the nearby symphony. the brunch specials change weekly; items like fluff y pancakes with gooey chocolate chips and candied pecans and smoked salmon eggs Benedict always tempt the palate.

If a more contemporary, up-and-coming neighborhood is your cup of tea, dine at th e Wine Market (www.the-wine-market.com; 410-244-6166) in Locust Point, one of the latest pocket-sized areas downtown to undergo a serious revitalization. the sophisticated restaurant and wine shop caters to this “new” Locust Point, attracting hip twentysomethings who primp a bit before heading to brunch (Sundays from 11am to 3:30pm). Regardless of age, the modern foundry building with high ceilings, exposed brick, visible ductwork and an outdoor patio makes for a fabulous place to start your day. Order something from the extensive and aff ordable wine list—or, in more traditional brunch manner, a crisp white peach bellini.

Nearby in Federal Hill is Little Havana (www.little-havanas.com; 410-837-9903), a tavern on the opposite side of the brunch spectrum. While you won’t find white tablecloths here, you will be more than pleased with the bottomless mimosas or Bloody Marys that accompany entrées like Cuban-inspired egg dishes and a classic pressed Cuban sandwich. th e Sunday crowd is heavy, so reservations are recommended.

A traditional ham-and-pork Cuban isn’t for everyone, especially vegetarians craving fakin’ bacon or meatless sausage. One World Café (www.one-world-cafe.com; 410-235-5777) is the rare breakfast spot that caters to the non-meat-eating and health-conscious set, serving organic food, fresh juice and smoothies. th e eclectic crowd is a mix of hip students from nearby Johns Hopkins University and young couples toting babies in eco-friendly slings. In addition to the hearty Tex-Mex burrito and thick French toast, the menu off ers a variety of vegan items, all of which will leave you more than satisfied.

Getting full—as in th anks-giving dinner full—is definitely not a problem at the all-you-can-eat brunch at the Inn at the Colonnade’s Spice Company (www..spicecompanyrestaurant.com; 410-235-8200). th ere are carving and omelet stations, a dessert bar, and bottomless Bloody Marys and mimosas. Despite the mass quantities of food, the brunch still provides a sophisticated atmosphere great for special occasions.

You typically won’t find crowds of locals at hotel brunches—but the opposite is true of Abacrombie Fine Food and Accommodations (www.abacrombie. net; 410-837-3630), a B&B and bistro. th e eatery is a true local gem, known for its impeccable service, sophisticated air and dinners, especially when there’s a show at the symphony across the street. However, Sunday between 12pm and 7pm is the time to go. In addition to brunch, the Sunday-only farmer’s menu features items bought that morning from local vendors. Occasionally, a cello musician plays, making that cup of French-pressed coff ee presented tableside that much more relaxing. the food is on the pricier side, but the sizeable portions can turn a late brunch into an early dinner.

Whether you splurge or eat on the cheap, dine at a bar or at a hotel, one thing’s for sure: Baltimore knows how to do brunch.

THE HISTORY OF BRUNCH

Not quite breakfast, not quite lunch… Where did this meal come from?

An old British publication, Hunter’s Weekly, is responsible for originally coining the term “brunch” back in 1896. The article “Brunch: A Plea,” written by Guy Beringer, explained the positive influences of this new meal, which was intended to be consumed after hunting. “Brunch is cheerful, sociable and inciting,” it said.

Brunch was first introduced to the US in the 1930s, a time when it was uncommon for restaurants to even be open on Sundays. But, as Chef David Kamen, a professor at The Culinary Institute of America, explains, churchgoers who skipped breakfast wanted somewhere to eat with friends and family after services, which influenced restaurants to offer the meal.

While many original dishes—pickled pork, savory pudding and pheasant leg—did not make it onto American menus, the breakfast/lunch combo concept was a hit. Hotels took it a step further by creating a buffet-style incarnation. Today, many restaurants not only offer brunch on Sundays, but also Saturdays—and sometimes even every day.

SOMETHING ABOUT MARY

The quintessential Baltimore Bloody Mary is rimmed with salt and spicy Old Bay, the Chesapeake staple used to season steamed crabs.

Gertrude’s, for one, goes beyond the celery stalk garnish, serving its Dirty Gertie with a fat poached shrimp curled around the glass. Here’s how to make one at home.

DIRTY GERTIE

INGREDIENTS

11/2 oz of vodka 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1/4 tsp Old Bay seasoning

1/2 tsp horseradish 3 dashes of Tabasco sauce 1 dash of pepper 2 parts tomato juice 1 part clam juice 1 celery stick and jumbo shrimp, for garnish

DIRECTIONS

Fill a tall glass with ice. Pour in vodka, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, Chesapeake seasoning, black pepper, horseradish and Tabasco. Stir. Fill the glass with a mixture of tomato and clam juice. Stir well. Rim glass with Old Bay, and garnish with celery stick and a jumbo shrimp.

For a virgin Gertie, use sweet lemonade instead of vodka.

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