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Secluded beaches take the spotlight in Vieques, a tiny island off the coast of Puerto Rico.

BY DIANE BAIR & PAMELA WRIGHT

Ten minutes: That's how long it takes to drive from the north side of Vieques to the south. This sleepy island, 6 miles off the southeast coast of Puerto Rico, was once used as a US Navy firing range and weapons testing ground (aft er protests, the Navy left in 2003)-but now it is a beach-lover's paradise.

With some 40 beaches and fewer than 10,000 residents, there's no need to worry about finding a sweet stretch of sand to claim with your towel. Want to get there early anyway? The resident rooster population will give you a 5am wake-up call, whether you like it or not.

Several beaches are named according to color-red, blue and green-based on codes used by the US Navy to designate landing zones. Red Beach-a curvaceous stretch of sand and sea with a sprinkling of covered cabanas-is a good place to start. Green Beach, on the western edge, takes a bit more eff ort to get to, but it delivers the thrill of discovery. Bumping along the gravel road, you'll pass mangrove lagoons and a handpainted beach sign nearly obscured by greenery.

Come nightfall, check out the dining options in Esperanza-Bili's Restaurant (787-741-1382) is a good bet-followed by a drink at Duffy's (787-741-7600). Or, head inland for a bite at Island Steakhouse (787-741-0011) at The Crow's Nest (www.crowsnestvieques.com; 787-741-0033). If you're looking to spend the night, this 16-room inn is ideal.

Save a night (preferably a moonless one) for exploring Vieques' major-and only-attraction: Mosquito Bay. Known as Bioluminescent Bay, the cove is full of single-celled flagellates that glow brilliantly when the water is disturbed. Tours are off ered by Blue Caribe Kayaks (www.bluecaribekayaks.com). You'll paddle into the inky lagoon, jump in the water, and create a dazzling light show simply by waving your limbs.

The Milky Way and Southern Cross overhead add to the magic. "All the glitz and glitter you can find on Vieques is pretty much right here," says guide Alex Rosa.

On an island as welcoming as Vieques, that's all the glamour it needs.

Getting There

Delightfully undiscovered (although a W Hotel is on the way), Vieques is worth the trip if you like sleepy, beach escapes. The island is about a one-hour ferry ride away that costs $2 each way. To get there, drive to Fajardo and park at the ferry terminal lot ($5/day) or take a taxi from San Juan (about $85).

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