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SEEK OUT THE HIDDEN BACKCOUNTRY PATHS IN THE NORTHEAST FOR AN OFF-SLOPE SKI EXPERIENCE YOU'LL NEVER FORGET.

WHEN the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) started cutting ski trails in the Northeast in 1933, there was no "backcountry." It was just skiing. There were no lift s, so skiers climbed uphill before they swooshed down. Rope tows and then chairlift s eventually changed the game, but they never replaced the backcountry experience.

There's no denying the Northeast is a hub for skiers and snowboarders looking for lift -serviced turns at iconic resorts like Vermont's Stowe and Maine's Sunday River. But the region is also a back-country paradise, with historic and hidden trails scattered about, from easy glides through backyards and cow pastures to steep, exposed chutes in alpine terrain. It's that diversity that differentiates the Eastern backcountry experience from those found elsewhere in the US. It's an acquired taste, but weaving powder turns down ancient trails and through hardwood glades is maple-sugar sweet.

Western New York's backcountry is off the radar, so you'll likely have it to yourself. Hunter's Creek Conservation Park near Wales, NY (25 miles from Buffalo), is prime for a mellow-yet-aesthetic tour, but for big-mountain backcountry, head northeast to Adirondack Park, encompassing roughly 6.1 million acres. Mt. Marcy (5,344 feet), the highest point in New York, is one of 46 mountains in the park that's more than 4,000 feet. This terrain requires crampons, ice axes and fresh edges, so if you're new to the area, a ski guide is recommended; try Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides (www.cloudsplitterguides.com).

Cut by the CCC in the 1930s, the Thunderbolt Trail (150 miles from Burlington, VT) is Western Massachusetts' backcountry trail of note. thetrail on Mt. Greylock (3,491 feet)-the state's highest peak-is snowy as long as the weather stays cold. It hosted the 1936 United States Eastern Alpine Ski Championships, but these days, skiers and boarders race uphill for tracks instead of trophies. "It's an exciting run-wide open and very well maintained," snowboarder Jim Deshler says. "It seems endless, steeply swinging back and forth across the fall line of Mt. Greylock. There's enough space for fresh tracks even after a few folks have left their mark."

Some mountains are skiable even without CCC manicuring. For example, New Hampshire's Mt. Washington (the tallest in the Northeast at 6,288 feet) and Tuckerman Ravine-both in White Mountain National Forest (98 miles from Portland)-are riddled with rocky chutes, snowfields and couloirs. Be warned that they are susceptible to avalanches in the winter; still, there's nothing like it anywhere else on the East Coast.

"To the skiing and boarding world, it's like the Mavericks [surfing spot] of the East," says Justin Reyher, who ski patrols at Mt. Washington. Weekends bring a party scene, if that's your thing. But if you're into making turns, you can hammer out a couple epic laps in a day-or camp in lean-tos and have the mountain to yourself the next morning.

VERMONT'S lush, rolling, rounded Green Mountains serve up quick-hit day tours, longer traverses and everything in between. For the newly initiated, Bolton Valley is a great place to ski on-trail, and then blaze your own path once you get familiar with the terrain. Longer point-to-point traverses like the Bolton-Trapps and Woodward trails are local legends and a must for more experienced skiers familiar with route-finding.

Mt. Mansfield (4,393 feet) is the highest peak in Vermont. For the traditional upand-down backcountry tour, check out the Teardrop, another CCC-chiseled trail. Stowe Mountain Resort resides on the flank of Mansfield, for those who like lifts and clear trails. From the ski-area boundary, you can hike to the summit, where you've got options. Don't stray too far from the trail, though-you'll end up stuck on a ledge or lost in the woods.

You might think you're lost as you head north through rural Vermont, near the Canadian border, until you reach Jay Peak Resort (64 miles from Burlington). Revered for its legendary snowfall and classic Eastern glades, the backcountry surrounding the resort and adjacent Big Jay Mountain is tough to beat. "Jay Peak backcountry is always a good time," says snowboarder Justin Cash. "[Widely spaced out] trees with ample deep snow and easy access make Jay's backcountry the place to be when touring in Vermont."

the only thing better than a day in the backcountry is several days in the back-country. Maine's new Poplar Stream Falls Hut (www.mainehuts.org) offers comfy accommodations in a wilderness setting, 130 miles from Portland. The surrounding terrain has something for everyone, from groomed trails to steeper shots off adjacent Little Bigelow Mountain. Proximity to Sugarloaf USA is key: You can warm up your legs on their trails before turning and burning in the backcountry-and catch a lift -served powder day on your way out.

Ultimately, there are only so many trails, which is why a guide or local knowledge is handy. Hardy skiers and riders often blaze their own, turning seemingly impenetrable woods into skiable terrain, much like the CCC did 70-plus years ago. But you won't see them if you're not looking. The Northeastern backcountry is always evolving, and finding your way is half the adventure.

BACKCOUNTRY BASICS - 10 TIPS FOR STAYING SAFE

1. CHECK THE AVALANCHE FORECAST

2. FOLLOW THE WEATHER

3. SKI IN CONTROL

4. KNOW YOUR EQUIPMENT AND LIMITS

5. PACK SEVERAL LAYERS AND PLENTY OF FOOD

6. WEAR A HELMET AND GOGGLES TO PROTECT YOUR EYES AND HEAD FROM BRANCHES

7. SHARPEN YOUR EDGES

8. INSULATE YOUR WATER OR IT WILL FREEZE

9. BRING TECHNICAL TOOLS- CRAMPONS, ICE AXE, BEACON, SHOVEL AND PROBE-WHEN IN AVALANCHE TERRAIN

10. BUY A GUIDEBOOK OR MAPS AND RESEARCH YOUR ROUTES BEFORE HEADING OUT

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