Issue: June 2009

On the Town - Philadelphia

While many historic sites (Liberty Bell, Independence Hall) live on here, America's first capital has changed a lot since 1774. Discover the thriving underground art scene, hear the sounds of Philly Soul, shop for locally made souvenirs and more.

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FOUR WAYS TO GET AWAY

WHETHER YOU'RE SEEKING A THROWBACK TO THE 1950S, OUTDOOR ADVENTURES, AN IMMERSIVE AMISH EXPERIENCE, OR FINE ART AND WINE, THE AREAS SURROUNDING PHILADELPHIA HAVE YOU COVERED.

BY PAM GEORGE

Pocono Mountains (Jim Thorpe)

Undulating across 2,400 square miles, the Pocono Mountains cover four counties laced with lakes, streams and rivers. Jim Thorpe (84 miles from Philadelphia) alone offers a healthy dose of all of the above. The town - originally called Mauch Chunk - was renamed for the Olympic gold medalist, and it's a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Nearby Pocono Whitewater Rafting offers rafting and kayak tours on the Lehigh River, as well as roundtrip shuttle service to the Lehigh Gorge Rail-Trail. This 25-mile trail - built along an old rail line - is ideal for scenic hiking or biking. And don't miss the dramatic beauty of the waterfalls at Glen Onoko on the Lehigh River Water Trail, where the largest drop is 75 feet.

WHILE YOU'RE THERE:
EAT: At Jim Thorpe's Molly Maguires Pub, named for the secret Irish organization accused of coalmining crimes, chow on traditional pub grub (including eight kinds of burgers). For an upscale meal, try Flow Restaurant, a farm-to-table eatery in a former factory, where diners can watch an underground stream flow beneath the restaurant. The menu has included such highlights as grilled pork chops with black truffle tater tots and crisped pork belly.

VISIT: Tour the Asa Packer Mansion, built by the railroad magnate and Lehigh University founder. Packer's son, Harry, lived nearby in what reportedly was the inspiration for Walt Disney World's Haunted Mansion. (Unfortunately, the only way to see the inside is to book a room for a murder mystery weekend.)

BUY: The area has a rich mining history. Purchase a piece of it at the No. 9 Mine & Museum in nearby Lans-ford. Both children and mining fans will appreciate the beautifully carved coal trains and miners available.

Wildwood, NJ

A trip to the island of Wildwood, NJ (90 miles from Philadelphia) will transport you to a place that's both retro and tropical, thanks to its distinctive architecture. Called Doo Wop, it's characterized by zigzagging balconies, boomerang patterns and tiki décor with a touch of neon thrown in. The Doo Wop Preservation League offers a self-guided tour, which will take you past The Caribbean and the StarLux, two 1950s motels that have been restored to their glory days. Or, visit the league's Doo Wop Experience, where a high-tech display lets users explore different topics; choose "Chubby Checker" and you'll hear his music, or select "Ford" to see cars from the era.

Be sure to dine on burgers and malts at the 1950s-style Doo Wop Diner on the boardwalk, then cap off the night at the Tiki Topz poolside bar at Flip Flopz Beach Bar & Grill, complete with thatched roofs and Kon-Tiki heads.

WHILE YOU'RE THERE:

EAT: Stewart's on the boardwalk, a fixture since 1924, serves smooth, frothy root beer made with a blend of roots, herbs and spices. At Maui's Dog House, order a traditional German frank (a mix of beef, pork and veal) and choose from more than 29 toppings (including baby spinach, garlic and bacon). Meals are served in dog bowls.

VISIT: Take advantage of the free beach and 2-mile boardwalk lined with shops and arcades. Thrill-seekers head to Morey's Piers to ride the Great Nor'easter, an inverted rollercoaster.

BUY: Fudge from Laura's Fudge, an old-fashioned candy shop that opened in 1926. A stop here is a Wildwoods tradition.

Brandywine Valley

If Chadds Ford (31 miles from Philadelphia) looks familiar, you may have seen a painting by N.C. Wyeth, who moved to the area in the early 1900s. The landscape also inspired the realist paintings of Wyeth's son, Andrew, and grandson, Jamie. The Brandy-wine River Museum showcases the family's work, including paintings by Andrew's siblings. You can also tour the Wyeth family home, N.C.'s studio and Kuerner Farm, which inspired many of Andrew's works.

The nearby Brandywine Valley Wine Trail includes Chaddsford Winery, Paradocx Vineyard and Penns Wood Winery, all open for drop-in tours and tastings. And from June 12-14, the trail is hosting a weekend camp that will teach guests the winemaking process through visits to five wineries.

WHILE YOU'RE THERE:

EAT: The nearby small town of Kennett Square bills itself as the mushroom capital of the world. Try the mushroom soup at Bistro on the Brandywine or Brandywine Prime Seafood & Chops.

VISIT: The Du Pont family (of the DuPont chemical company) came to the Brandywine Valley in the 1800s. Walk the grounds of Longwood Gardens, home of Pierre S. du Pont (great-grandson of the company's founder); the 1,050-acre property has beautiful gardens, woodlands and meadows. Nearby, in Winterthur, DE, is the former home of Henry du Pont (Pierre's cousin), Winterthur Museum & Country Estate, which is filled with his exquisite collection of antiques and Americana.

BUY: Mushroom soup mix from The Mushroom Cap on State Street, the main drag of Kennett Square.

Lancaster County

For those who want to really interact with the Amish community of Lancaster County, take the Amish VIP (Visit in Person) Tour (starting June 15) through the Amish Experience, the country's largest Amish interpretive center. You'll go inside a working farm in Bird-in-Hand, PA (64 miles from Philadelphia), just in time for milking; a home business, where goods like furniture and quilts are made; and a countryside family home, where the evening concludes with candid conversation.

At the Amish House and Farm in Lancaster (70 miles from Philadelphia), tour a 200-year-old farmhouse, complete with an on-site blacksmith shop and one-room schoolhouse. You'll leave with a wealth of knowledge, including how to tell if an Amish woman is married just by looking at her clothes.

WHILE YOU'RE THERE:

EAT: Good 'n Plenty in Smoketown serves all the Pennsylvania Dutch staples: fried chicken, noodles, chow chow, pork and sauerkraut, and shoo fly pie. For something a bit more upscale, try John J. Jeffries in downtown Lancaster. Named for a tobacco inspector from the 1800s, it's housed in an old tobacco warehouse and offers American cuisine made with local ingredients. Try the organic, boneless half-chicken with sweet potato-split pea purée and chorizo gravy.

VISIT: Ride the Strasburg Rail Road, America's oldest short-line railroad, and check out the Landis Valley Museum & Village, an interactive historic village that demonstrates early Pennsylvania German life.

BUY: A quilt or "quillow" (quilted pillow) from downtown Lancaster's Gallery Row.

POCONOS (JIM THORPE)

POCONO WHITEWATER RAFTING
www.whitewaterrafting.com

LEHIGH RIVER WATER TRAIL
www.wildlandspa.org

THE MOLLY MAGUIRES PUB
www.jimthorpedining.com; 570-325-8995

FLOW RESTAURANT
www.theccp.org; 570-325-8200

ASA PACKER MANSION
www.asapackermansion.com

NO. 9 MINE & MUSEUM
http://no9mine.tripod.com

WILDWOOD

DOO WOP PRESERVATION LEAGUE AND EXPERIENCE www.doowopusa.org

DOO WOP DINER
www.doo-wopdiner.com; 609-522-7880

FLIP FLOPZ BEACH BAR & GRILL
www.flipflopzbarandgrill.com; 609-522-3350