Not For Tourists

THE LINES MAY BE LONG AT THESE TOP WASHINGTON, DC, ATTRACTIONS, BUT BE PATIENT-THE PAYOFF IS WORTH IT.

I'm the kind of traveler who shuns anything touristy. When visiting a city for the first time, I make a beeline to the eclectic neighborhoods with funky shops, I seek out art galleries filled with local masterpieces, I snap photos of obscure monuments and I search for eateries that gourmet-loving taxi drivers recommend in hushed tones-lest word gets out. So what do I do in my free time living in Washington, DC, one of the most-visited cities in the world, where almost everything is a sight to see? I become a tourist, naturally.

As such, I've learned that while many of the capital's top attractions are wonderful, only some of the marquee sites are worth battling the teeming masses of visitors.

Of all the monuments, the Lincoln Memorial (www.nps.gov/linc) is the one not to miss. Keep that in mind as you wind your way past school groups decked out in matching T-shirts and around families with young children resting up for the final ascent to the top of the stairs. The stunning view across the reflecting pool to the Washington Monument and the US Capitol building in the distance is well worth the climb.

To the left of the iconic marble statue is an adjacent chamber, complete with an engraving of Lincoln's Gettysburg Address, and a walk among the columns to the back of the monument offers beautiful vistas of the Potomac River and Arlington National Cemetery. While all of DC's monuments are, well, monumental, Lincoln, more than any other, captures the essence of America, with its grand scale, inspiring message and commanding perch over a vast sweep of open land.

Another site that will blow you away is the Smithsonian's National Air and Space Museum (www.nasm.si.edu), which attracts about 9 million visitors a year. It's one of the busiest museums in the world-and it's easy to see why. There is nothing quite as thrilling as getting up close to the incredible flying machines, like Charles Lindbergh's Spirit of St. Louis, which made the first solo flight across the Atlantic, and the Apollo 11 command module from the first manned moon landing, which took place 40 years ago this month. The Wright brothers' 1903 flyer, which started it all, looks remarkably new following a 1980s restoration that included fresh canvas stretched over the frame. And if you've ever wanted to fly an F-4 Phantom II jet fighter, this is your chance: Jet-age flight simulators let you control the action and perform 360-degree barrel rolls.

Once you're back on solid ground, head across the Mall to another must-see destination: the US Capitol (www.aoc.gov). A $621 million underground visitor center, which opened last December, welcomes 3 to 5 million visitors annually to this beacon of democracy. Guests line up to get free tour tickets in the center's airy underground chamber, lit in part by skylights that offer glimpses of the Capitol's towering dome.

The building is magnificent in its own right, filled with ornate 19th-century neoclassical architectural structures, statues and historic paintings. But it's the history of the place-and the fact that it's still used to conduct the people's business after more than 200 years-that really makes it worth visiting. You may even catch a glimpse of a current lawmaker being trailed by a pack of reporters.

Speaking of reporters, tourists have newshounds to thank for the mysterious curse surrounding the breathtaking Hope Diamond, on permanent display at the National Museum of Natural History (www.mnh.si.edu). After checking out the new Sant Ocean Hall, home to a life-sized model of a North Atlantic right whale and an actual carcass of a giant squid under glass, make your way to this $350 million, deep-blue, 45.52-carat stunner.

In 1908, an article in the Washington Post claimed that the diamond had brought trouble to all who had owned it. Legend has it this breathtaking gem was stolen from the eye of a sculpted Hindu goddess, but the stone's actual history is no less intriguing. In 1668, King Louis XIV of France purchased a 112.2-carat diamond and had it cut into a 67.1-carat jewel, which became known as the "Blue Diamond of the Crown" or the "French Blue." During the French Revolution, the diamond was stolen, only to resurface as a slightly smaller stone 20 years later in London. Over the generations, it was passed from royalty to the Hope family to Pierre Cartier to Harry Winston before being donated to the Smithsonian in 1958. The idea of the curse stems from stories about the untimely demise of its many owners, including Marie Antoinette. But visitors needn't worry: The massive gem now rests safely behind 3-inch-thick, bulletproof glass.

The jewel-or jewels-of the National Zoological Park (www.nationalzoo.si.edu) are more cute and cuddly than cursed: Mei Xiang and Tian Tian, the famous pair of pandas, and their adorable offspring Tai Shan, born in July 2005. It's worth waiting behind the crowds emitting "oohs" and "aahs" to see these bears tumble in the grass or climb trees. If you're lucky, you'll also see the orangutans overhead along the "O Line"-a stretch of cables linking a series of tall towers between the Great Ape House and the nearby Think Tank, a center for studying cognition.

As a tourist, I've realized that there is so much to do in our nation's capital-and the millions of visitors would likely agree. Whether waiting in line behind eager kids fighting for a glimpse of Tai Shan or out-of-town parents at the Capitol explaining the branches of government to their children, I've also learned that being a tourist in my own city can be more exciting than being a local.

Waiting Tables

Battling crowds can make you work up an appetite. And with so many mouthwatering options, just figuring out where to eat can require an act of Congress. At the following spots, you may need to have a drink or two while you wait, but your meal will be worth it.

MICHEL RICHARD CITRONELLE
www.citronelledc.com; 202-625-2150
This Georgetown restaurant arguably put the nation's capital on the culinary map. The unique dining area centers around a glass wall with a stunning view of the kitchen, where you can watch the titular chef work his magic.

THE OLD EBBITT GRILL
www.ebbitt.com; 202-347-4800
Located steps away from the White House, this DC power restaurant has long been a favorite of politicos, lobbyists and journalists. Enjoy a thick steak while ensconced in a booth surrounded by mahogany décor and old paintings.

JALEO TAPAS BAR
www.jaleo.com; 202-628-7949
The warm flavors and ambience of Spain shine through in this popular José Andrés-owned tapas bar located in trendy Penn Quarter, where the succulent small dishes are served at a rapid pace.

BEN'S CHILI BOWL
www.benschilibowl.com; 202-667-0909
A beloved DC institution for more than 50 years, Ben's-located in the heart of the hip U Street Corridor-serves some of the best chili half-smokes, chili dogs and milkshakes on the Eastern seaboard.