On the Town - Southwest Florida Special

BATTLE OF THE BEACHES

THE SOUTHWEST CORNER OF THE SUNSHINE STATE HAS LONG BEEN KNOWN AS "FLORIDA'S FLORIDA." IT'S WHERE THE NATIVES VACATION-AND IT'S LARGELY BECAUSE OF THE BEACHES. THE COAST IS LINED WITH BARRIER ISLANDS AND IMMENSE SANDBARS, SOME LEFT ALONE FOR NATURE LOVERS TO ENJOY AND OTHERS BUILT UP FOR ACTION AND FUN. BUT WHICH BEACH IS BEST?

BY AD HUDLER

Cayo Costa State Park

Hardcore nature lovers must visit this park, which remains pristine because it's accessible only by the African Queen-like ferry that departs from a Pine Island marina. If you're hoping to find the granddaddy of conch shells, this is your place. Pitch a tent if you like, and stay overnight. But beware of mosquitoes during the summer and fall, which are even more haunting than the island's historic cemetery.

Ft. Myers Beach

his is southwest Florida's college spring-break hub. Go to see everyone from hand-holding retirees to a tattooed woman wearing a boa (constrictor!) around her neck. Families with small children like the gradually sloping beach, the nearby restaurants and all the rental beach toys-this is perfect choice for the can't-sit-still crowd. And if you're wondering about the brownish color of the sand and water, it's because of the nearby Caloosahatchee River.

Tigertail Beach

Despite its Cancun-like urban skyline, this Marco Island beach offers one of the area's most natural coastal settings. Due to shifting sand over the years, a lagoon of sorts has formed between the mainland and gulf-front beach, creating a remarkable bird sanctuary. Don't be surprised to find yourself surrounded by a flock of pink-plumaged roseate spoonbills or a living blanket of tiny fiddler crabs, scurrying to get out of your way. One problem: Because the lagoon supports wildlife, you must walk around it, and by the time you get to the beach you might want to nap instead of bird-watch.

Lovers Key Carl E. Johnson State Park

Florida's award-winning state parks have a wholesome feel to them, and this one is no exception. It comes complete with a lean-to snack shack (Hurricane Charley's) right on the beach, and you can kayak, bike or hike the trails outlined with signs explaining the island's flora and fauna, which you are almost guaranteed to encounter. (Overheard on a recent trip: "Honey, don't sit on that rock! It's got four feet-and it's moving!)

Barefoot Beach Preserve

On many days, the gopher tortoises outnumber humans at this beach. This is partly because of the species' thriving population and partly because few people even know about this place. To get there, beachgoers must drive through a gated community. Don't be discouraged by the gauntlet of "PRIVATE DRIVEWAY! NO TRESPASSING ALLOWED!" signs; you're allowed to be there. You will be rewarded with a shell-filled, un-peopled setting.

Bowman's Beach

This Sanibel Island beach requires a short hike through a forest and over a long bridge, but the journey only makes it feel even more Robinson-Crusoe remote. For some reason, Europeans seem to prefer this beach for au naturel suntanning, but rangers do a good job of keeping everyone in their Speedos.

Sanibel Island Causeway

If you want something more laidback and even closer to the water, park your car directly on the beaches that line the Sanibel Island Causeway, a favored spot for the jet-ski crowd. Don't be intimidated by the lack of tourists. The Florida natives are the perfect people to show you just how fun local beaches can be.

Vanderbilt Beach

Because most Southwest Florida beaches are in natural settings, it can be hard to find good food and libations. One exception is this Naples beach. The historic-looking building with the twin turrets is The Ritz-Carlton, and the restaurant and bar in the hotel's beach pavilion are open to the public. Vanderbilt also has an adjacent parking garage, which makes it a good choice for families schlepping a vanload of beach gear.

Clam Pass Beach Park

This beach in Naples is accessible via a tram ride through a shaded mangrove forest, but you might want to walk it so you can watch the herons and egrets feeding on crabs. Try to be at the pass during the change of tides; kids and adults alike will delight in the sensation of water rushing from bay to gulf. But wait! Where did mom go? Tired of sun and sand, she was last seen walking down the street to the nearby Waterside Shops for a sale at Nordstrom.

Shell It Like It Is

Southwest Florida is one of the world's top shelling spots-it's even home to The Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum (www.shellmuseum.org) on Sanibel Island. Hit the beach early for the best shelling, but there is one caveat: It's against the law to take live shells (distinguishable by a grayish blob-like creature inside). Here are a few types you may find:

LIGHTNING WHELK: Delicate and long, these shells were revered by the Calusa Indians who lived here long ago.

OLIVE: Shaped like a piece of rolled pastry dough, it has a coating that's as smooth and shiny as the fruit that shares its name.

SCALLOP: Made famous in the Shell Oil sign, these range in size and color, from magenta to burnt orange to ivory.

GIANT HEART COCKLE: Used as ashtrays by locals, this common shell is usually found intact, despite its larger size.

FLORIDA FIGHTING CONCH: You'll mostly see baby versions of this sea snail, though larger ones can be found on remote beaches.

COQUINA: The size and shape of a child's fingernail, these colorful mollusks are best enjoyed alive.After a wave recedes, watch the coquinas' gelatinous legs pop out of the shells and hurriedly dig their way to safety beneath the sand.

Palm Reader

Only this far south in Florida do tropical palms truly thrive. And Ft. Myers, aka the City of Palms, got its nickname because long-time winter resident Thomas Edison planted the first of the royal palms that line the stately McGregor Boulevard. It's just one of many varieties you'll see as you explore.

COCONUT: This tree has irregularly curved trunks, and clusters of green, unripe-but-heavy coconuts near the top-so you'd best not park the rental car beneath one.

ROYAL: These regal and straight trees have thick trunks that look like they're covered in smooth concrete. They are often planted in lines along sidewalks.

BISMARCK: Squatty and broad shouldered, this tree has immense, pale, silvery-green fronds that give it an alien appearance. It's often used as a centerpiece in yards.

SABAL: Florida's state tree, it grows wild, often in clumps, just about everywhere. Hearts of palm come from the sabal.

FOXTAIL: One look at the fronds and you'll see where this tree gets its name. Common in Naples-area medians, this type has a pencil-straight trunk.