Sum Kind of Wonderful

The cart-filled aisles of Chinese brunch restaurants don’t have to be intimidating. Navigate them with this handy guide to traditional dim sum dishes.

CHAR SIU BAAU
(barbecue pork buns)

Sweet, shredded pork hides inside these steamed, pillowy standbys, which are favored by first-timers who are intimidated by more unusual dishes. Try some at Hei La Moon in Boston. 88 Beach St; 617-338-8813; www.heilamoon.com

 

JIN DEUI
(sesame seed balls)
People sometimes bypass these desserts because they look savory. In fact, the fried balls of sweet rice dough hold delicious nuggets of lotus or red bean paste. Try some at 88 Palace in New York City. 88 E Broadway; 212-941-8886

HAR GOW
(shrimp dumplings)
These translucent balls of shrimp and minced bamboo shoots are steamed and served in a bamboo basket. Delicate and light, they are an ideal starting dish. Try some at Phoenix Restaurant in Chicago. 2131 S Archer Ave; 312-328-0848; www.chinatownphoenix.com

 

LO MAI GAI
(steamed rice in lotus leaf)
Sticky rice, black mushrooms and other vegetables, Chinese sausage and chicken are wrapped inside an envelope of lotus leaves. Try some at Yank Sing in San Francisco. 49 Stevenson St; 415-541-4949; www.yanksing.com