Issue: April 2011


Head For The Hills

An easy drive from San Antonio, the storybook landscape of the Texas Hill Country comes with rolling hills and wildflower-filled fields, spring-fed rivers and deep blue lakes, picturesque ranches and limestone cottages. See it all on this weekend-long drive.

BY Melanie Young —

1 A Mexican breakfast of huevos rancheros at festive, piñata-filled Mi Tierra Café Y Paradería in San Antonio should fortify you for the drive ahead.

2 Head 50 miles north on US Hwy 281 for a dip in the Blanco River in Blanco State Park. From May to June, the color purple blooms on farms around Blanco, which hosts its annual Lavender Festival June 10-12, with free farm tours and a lavender market.

3 Drive 14 miles north on 281 to Johnson City for a tour of the 1901 frame house where President Lyndon Baines Johnson grew up, along with the rustic cabins of LBJ’s grandfather and great uncle, both cattle drivers in the 1860s. Continue the Old West theme with chicken-fried steak for lunch at Silver K Café.

4 While driving the 16 miles on US Hwy 290 West to Stonewall, watch for roadside stands selling ripe Hill Country peaches (usually in June). Another must-stop is Becker Vineyards, three miles west of Stonewall off Hwy 290 on Jenschke Lane. Taste its fine clarets and cabernets beside an antique bar from a 19th-century San Antonio saloon.

5 A short detour south on Ranch Road 1376 lands you in legendary Luckenbach, where folks sip cold beer under huge live oaks while musicians — sometimes even Willie Nelson himself — drop by to sing and strum their guitars.

6 Drive 10 miles northwest on 290 to Fredericksburg, and learn about its German heritage in the hexagonal Vereins Kirche, a church-turned-museum. Browse the shops in historic limestone buildings along Main Street, or imbibe a German brew with bratwurst in Altdorf ’s outdoor biergarten. Offering the region’s largest selection of B&Bs — from restored pioneer cabins and rock barns to gingerbreadtrimmed mansions — Fredericksburg is the perfect place to stay the night.

7 Rise and shine, and take US Hwy 87 south 23 miles to Comfort, another burg settled by Germans. The antiques shops here are renowned, and the local wineries are featured stops on the Wine & Wildflower Trail event (April 1-10, weekends only).

8 In Boerne (pronounced like “Bernie”), just 16 miles down Interstate 10 East, hike the scenic nature trail beside cypressshaded Cibolo Creek at the Cibolo Nature Center, then refuel at The Creek Restaurant with a Kobe beef burger.

9 Follow State Highways 46 and 16 west for 26 miles to channel your inner cowboy in Bandera, the self-proclaimed “Cowboy Capital of the World.” Come evening, go boot-scootin’ around the sawdustsprinkled floor in Arkey Blue’s Silver Dollar Saloon to live country music. Rest your weary feet at the rustic Dixie Dude Ranch for the night. In the morning, hit the trail on horseback (two rides are included in your stay) and fuel up with a home-cooked meal before making the 50-mile trip back to San Antonio.

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