Roads Less Traveled
Wilderness. It’s a concept more American than apple pie. Since Yosemite was established in 1890, more than 500 million acres of the nation’s most spectacular, ecologically unique and culturally important land has been placed in the public trust. Soaring mountains, primordial forests and wildliferich grasslands — all yours to explore. Here, we asked the experts to reveal the best off-the-beaten-path trails (not to mention the sweetest gear and greatest campsites) to make exploring the wild more tempting than ever. So pack your carryon and lace up your boots. It’s time to hike.
© JOHN BURCHAM
1 NOLAND DIVIDE TRAIL TO LONESOME PINE OVERLOOK
68 MILES FROM ASHEVILLE
A steep trail up a firescorched ridge delivers you to a rocky outcropping with dramatic views of North Carolina’s mountain country.
As Great Smoky Mountains National Park’s trails and facilities volunteer coordinator, Christine Hoyer spends most of her days in the field, working on the park’s 800-plus-mile trail network. But when she’s off the clock, she heads to one place: Lonesome Pine Overlook, a cliff-top lookout three leg-straining miles up the rugged Noland Divide Trail on the North Carolina side of Great Smoky. Here’s why:
• THE VIEW. From Lonesome Pine, the view is southwest into Deep Creek and Lands Creek valleys. “It’s really a spectacular, expansive view,” Hoyer says.
• SOLITUDE. Given the steep climb — it’s more than 2,000 feet from Deep Creek to Lonesome Pine — and its relative isolation from the park’s main travel corridors, only a tiny fraction of the park’s 9 million annual visitors ever make it to the lookout.
• A WATERFALL. “There’s a small cascade during the springtime that crosses the trail,” she says.
• THE BURN. We’re not talking the one in your thighs, but rather a swath of Beaugard Ridge (the one you’ll climb) that burned in a 2001 forest fire. “You can see the destruction of the fire,” Hoyer says, “but also the beginnings of [regrowth vegetation that’s] going to take its place.” Plus, the fire opened up the views on the ascent.
• OFF MAP. “It’s not on the $1 trail map,” Hoyer says. “If people don’t know it’s there, they won’t look for it.”
• BEARS. Three of the six times Hoyer has hiked here, she’s either scared a bear off the ridge or seen one. “If you’re looking to find wildlife, don’t go to our highestuse trails,” she says. It also helps that there are…
• BLUEBERRIES. “If you hit it just right (mid- to late-summer), you’ll have Lonesome Pine to yourself and plenty of blueberries to munch on,” she says.
Get Home Safely
WILDERNESS IS BIG, BEAUTIFUL AND OFTEN UNPREDICTABLE. WE ASKED THE EXPERTS WHAT TO DO WHEN TROUBLE STRIKES.
YOUR CANOE CAPSIZES OFFSHORE Jeremy Oyen, American Canoe Association
(1) Stay with your canoe. (2) Have the designated rescuer pull the canoe perpendicular on top of his to drain it, then place it parallel to his own. (3) Swim to your canoe on the opposite side of the rescuer, who will gently tilt his side up.
(4) Lie on your back, reach your outside foot into boat. (5) Roll toward canoe and grab the rescuer’s hand, who will hold the canoe steady as you enter it. Know before you go: Don’t canoe alone. Three is the ideal minimum.
YOU’RE LOST IN THE WOODS Reggie Bennett, Mountain Shepherd Wilderness Survival School
(1) Ask the following questions: Do I know the terrain? In which direction is the nearest road, river or town? Can I navigate there? (2) If you have any doubt, stay put.
(3) Get shelter from wind, rain or sun. (Most rescues happen within 24 hours, so food shouldn’t be your first priority.)
(4) Start a fire.
(5) Drink some water.
(6) Alert a search plane with a signal mirror. (7) Wait. Know before you go: Tell friends or family where you’re headed.
YOU’RE CAUGHT IN A THUNDERSTORM Tony Nester, Ancient Pathways wilderness skills company
(1) If you’re at high elevation, get down into the tree line as fast as possible and look for shelter under a grove of saplings or immature trees. (2) If you’re in a group, spread out about 30 feet from each other.
(3) As a general rule, if lightning is 6 miles away (30 seconds between lightning and thunderclap) or closer, squat down on your packs and ride out the storm. Know before you go: Research local weather patterns.
2 LOST POND-SQUARE LEDGE TRAIL
(White Mountain National Forest)
76 MILES FROM PORTLAND, ME
This family-friendly loop hike samples the best the White Mountains have to offer.
Pinkham Notch, a deep glacial valley in the White Mountains, is New Hampshire’s easternmost mountain pass and a hiker’s paradise. Sandwiched between two wind-scoured ridges — one of which is 6,288-foot Mt. Washington, the Northeast’s tallest mountain — it’s a launching point for big treks into the Whites’ most rugged terrain. But there’s plenty to suit less experienced hikers. In fact, Justin Preisendorfer, a long-time Wilderness and Backcountry Recreation Manager in White Mountain National Forest, eschewed more obvious choices — a hut-to-hut trek over the alpine heights of the Presidential Range or a frontal assault on the steeps of Tuckerman Ravine — for an easier, low-country loop that shows off the area’s best features: cliff-top views, river crossings, a waterfall and plenty of wildlife.
Begin the hike from the Appalachian Mountain Club-managed Pinkham Notch Visitor Center. The Lost Pond Trail crosses a wetland, then ascends gradually through the woods beside the Ellis River. You’ll quickly come to the half-mile Square Ledge Trail that branches to the left. Take it, and climb 500 feet up the side of Wildcat Mountain to Square Ledge, a west-facing cliff that offers a view of the eastern face of Mt. Washington. “Walk around the side of the ledge and then pop out on top. It’s a pretty amazing vantage point from there,” Preisendorfer says.
Linger for a while before heading back down to the junction and continuing your ascent of the Lost Pond Trail to the shore of the beaver pond for which it’s named. Keep your eyes peeled here for beaver, but also look out for moose.
Hike on to the Wildcat Ridge Trail, which crosses the Ellis River. (Note: The crossing can be challenging, so check the water levels.) Another short side trail to the left brings you to the base of 64-foot-tall Glen Ellis Falls, which plunges into a deep-green pool year-round. The Glen Boulder and Direttissima trails return you north, crossing over a small gorge on the way to the overflow parking lot at the visitor center.
Go Light, Go Far
YOUR BACK WILL THANK YOU FOR PACKING LIGHTWEIGHT CAMPING GEAR.
1 EVERNEW TITANIUM ULTRA-LIGHT COOKWARE
What do we know about titanium? Well, it’s used in airplanes (like the one you’re flying on), weighs next to nothing and lasts a lifetime. What’s more, these pots, cup and collapsible utensils nest together for easy packing. two pots, $87; cup, $ 22; utensils, $50, www.evernewamerica.com
2 MSR WHISPERLITE INTERNATIONALE
There’s a reason why MSR has sold this model for 23 years — because it’s the most reliable stove available. Its simple, solid construction means it can withstand a beating, but is fixable in the field when it doesn’t. Oh yeah, it also heats food really well. $90, www.cascadedesigns.com
3 STERIPEN ADVENTURER OPTI
Unless you plan to lug gallons of water (and, at 8.35 pounds each, you probably don’t), you’ll need this little guy. Fast, reliable and ultralight, it uses UV light to kill bacteria and viruses in even the nastiest of puddles. $90, www.steripen.com
4 PRINCETON TEC REMIX
Whether you’re lighting your dinner or spotlighting the raccoon that took off with it, this bombproof headlamp has you covered. Three LEDs give off a bright, even floodlight for camp use, and a Maxbright LED sheds light on animals up to 148 feet away. $45, www.princetontec.com
5 SMARTWOOL SOCKS
Socks are probably the most critical yet underrated piece of equipment on any backpacking trip. A good pair — with decent cushioning and flat toe seams — keeps your feet warm, and blisters from forming on them. Smartwool, a favorite for 17 years, makes theirs with sustainably rais d ed, superfine merino wool. $16 to $24 s
6 PACKIT GOURMET
Just because it’s dehydrated doesn’t mean it has to taste that way. Not only does Packit taste like real food — yummy dishes include “The Big Easy Gumbo” and “Austintacious Tortilla Soup” — but it’s also made with natural and organic ingredients when possible. Just add water — and bon appétit. $2.50 to $7/single serving, www.packitgourmet.com
7 THERM-A-REST NEOAIR
You won’t worry about frozen ground or that pesky root jabbing your ribs when you doze on this lightweight sleeping pad. Its reflective barrier returns warmth to your body while a stabilizing internal truss system keeps you steady atop 2.5 inches of air. Sweet dreams. $150, www.cascadedesigns.com
8 GOLITE ADRENALINE THREE-SEASON MUMMY
Have cold feet about camping? Not in this sleeping bag, which keeps you toasty when the temp dips to as low as 20 degrees. Special fabric at the head and feet keep heat-sucking tent-wall condensation from soaking through the goose down-filled bag. $370, www.golite.com
9 GREGORY Z40
This carry-on weekender lets you walk straight off the tarmac and into the woods. Better yet, it gets your goods to camp comfortably, thanks to Gregory’s new suspension that adjusts stiffness to match the weight you pack. $149, www.gregorypacks.com
10 BIG AGNES FLY CREEK UL2
It’s true there’s no place like home, but out on the trail this is the next best thing. With 28 square feet of living space and a 38-inch-high peak, there’s room to play cards or twiddle thumbs while its doublewall construction keeps the warm in and the weather out. And, at a hair over 2 pounds, you’ll feel like you didn’t pack it. $350, www.bigagnes.com
11 BLACK DIAMOND ULTRA DISTANCE TREKKING POLES
Taking a cue from tent poles, these carbonfiber trekkers are durable and featherweight. They fold in thirds for easy packing and storage so they can go the distance to help you go far on the trail. $150, www.blackdiamondequipment.com
JUSTIN’S “LEAVE NO TRACE” HIKING TIPS:
Limit group size, because groups have exponentially larger impact on a trail.
Walk on durable surfaces to avoid eroding trails, especially in mud season.
Keep an eye out for animals, and give them space. You’re in their home.
Don’t feed the wildlife. Visit www.lnt.org for more info on “leave no trace” ethics.
3 MERCED GROVE TRAIL
172 MILES FROM SAN FRANCISCO
Get some alone time amid a regal grove of giant sequoias — the biggest living things on the planet — at the end of this easy hike.
In the 15 years he’s been at Yosemite, there’s one trail Assistant Superintendent for Public and Legislative Affairs Scott Gediman has brought his family to again and again: the Merced Grove Trail, an easy hike that takes you to the park’s smallest sequoia grove, home to only 25 of the 200-foot-tall trees.
Why the Merced Grove Trail? “Of the three sequoia groves, it’s the least visited, and I think it’s just as beautiful as the Mariposa Grove, and the most natural looking. Hiking it is about seeing Yosemite’s last ‘wildest’ stand.”
What’s the trail like? “It’s an old stage coach road [along] a steady decline down to the grove. Down in the valley, you wander next to Moss Creek until you walk right up on the grove. You’re walking through a beautiful forest… occasionally you’ll come across an area where sunlight can get through, so there are patches of wildflowers along the way. You’ve got all the Lodgepoles and the Ponderosas and the pine trees, and then all of a sudden — boom! — you start seeing these huge sequoias that dwarf the other trees.”
What kind of wildlife will you likely encounter? “You could encounter squirrels, chipmunks and other small rodents. Mule deer are common, and there are black bears in the spring and summertime, and coyotes — so kind of your typical Yosemite wildlife.”
Why not hike to a spectacular mountain view or plunging waterfall? “Yosemite National Park was set aside for two primary reasons: for preserving Yosemite Valley, and for the Mariposa Grove of sequoias, which are the biggest living things on Earth.”
Doesn’t it make sense to visit Mariposa, then? “I think the Merced Grove is a throwback to an earlier time. You hike out and see [sequoias] in their ‘natural habitat.’ I hesitate to say that, because at the Mariposa Grove they’re also in their natural habitat — but there’s a road through it and fences around some of them, as well as a gift shop, bathrooms, parking lots and buses and all of that…. To see a grove like this that’s not ‘developed’ makes it a really special hike.”
Best Campsites
FIND THE PERFECT CAMP FOR YOU
YOU WANT STARS
WHERE TO GO BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK (260 miles from Las Vegas)
THE CAMP There’s a reason this high desert wonderland has been hosting an astronomy festival for over a decade: At more than 6,600 feet and located hundreds of miles from the nearest big city, its sky is one of the darkest in the US. Camp at North or Sunset campground, and crane your neck at the 7,500 visible stars that twinkle overhead.
YOU WANT BIG TREES
WHERE TO GO SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK (263 miles from Los Angeles)
THE CAMP Not only is riverside South Fork campground set miles from the nearest highway by way of a bucolic, winding dirt road, it’s also in prime foothill wildflower country. A trailhead in the campground climbs 4.3 miles into the Sierra to the Garfield Grove of sequoias, home to King Arthur, considered the world’s 10th-largest sequoia.
YOU WANT HOT SPRINGS
WHERE TO GO OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK (208 miles from Seattle)
THE CAMP It’s an easy, 2.5-mile hike along a newly rehabbed trail to reach seven small, 98- to 105-degree pools along Boulder Creek. Get a permit beforehand to set up your tent at nearby Boulder Creek campground, a primitive site located just across the creek, so you can enjoy a transcendent soak under the stars.
YOU WANT PRIVATE ISLAND
WHERE TO GO ACADIA NATIONAL PARK (164 miles from Portland, ME)
THE CAMP Well, it’s not exactly private, but with only five lean-to campsites on 8,000-acre Isle Au Haut, it’s the next best thing. Hop aboard a ferry from Stonington, ME, to access Duck Harbor Campground and its miles of pristine coastal backcountry trails.
YOU WANT BEACH
WHERE TO GO GULF ISLANDS NATIONAL SEASHORE (45 miles from Pensacola, FL)
THE CAMP Perdido Key is less than 50 miles from downtown Pensacola, but it feels worlds away with its vast, open stretches of powder-fine sand (which is quartz eroded from the granite heights of the Appalachians). Get a permit and pitch a tent beyond the end of the paved roadway, where the crashing waves lull you to sleep.
YOU WANT MOUNTAINTOP
WHERE TO GO THE ROAN HIGHLANDS, TN-NC BORDER (78 miles from Asheville, NC)
THE CAMP Hike the Appalachian Trail from Carvers Cap over these open, grassy summits, which explode with rhododendrons, azaleas and other wildflowers in May and June. Pitch your tent just off the trail on 6,165-foot Grassy Ridge Bald, where the 360-degree views will allow you to watch both sunset and sunrise.
YOU WANT WILDLIFE
WHERE TO GO WHITE RIVER NATIONAL FOREST, CO (194 miles from Denver)
THE CAMP The 235,214 acres of the Flat Tops Wilderness is a playground for the 42,000 elk of North America’s largest herd. Set up camp on a high vantage point like Flat Top or West mountains, and keep your eyes peeled for the elk, as well as black bear, mule deer, marmot, mountain lion, moose, coyote and bighorn sheep.
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