A Tale Of Two Crabcakes

The fancy smoked crabcake at Pierpoint and the bare-bones classic at Koco’s Pub go head to head.

PIERPOINT

At this intimate, classy Fell’s Point bistro, Nancy Longo — named the state’s “unofficial coronated crabcake queen” by Maryland magazine in 1991 — infuses the classic crabcake with a smoky taste and a hint of sherry. The famed smoked version first appeared as a special item 22 years ago and quickly earned a spot in the regular lineup.

#1 “We smoke the crab meat over fruitwood, cool it and then turn it into a crabcake with a very light smoked flavor,” says Longo of the cooking process. Real mayo, Dijon mustard and the right balance of Worcestershire sauce, Old Bay and lemon juice round out the dish.

#2 Timing is everything. “The crab meat has a creamy, sherry quality rather than a heavy barbecue flavor because it is not smoked for more than 35 minutes,” Longo says.

#3 Notoriously light on filler, this crabcake doesn’t have a single breadcrumb. “Instead of breading, we grind Ritz crackers into a fine flour,” Longo explains.

#4 The crabcakes are neither fried nor broiled, once again defying tradition. Longo opts for pan searing in a blend of extra light olive oil and butter. “There’s got to be some fat to hold it all together,” she says.

#5 “Coleslaw is one of the traditional side dishes, but we use Brussels sprouts slaw instead,” Longo says. The plate is completed with a Silver Queen corn cake, matchstick potatoes and caper cornichon tartar sauce.

#6 While Longo’s personal preference is beer, she recommends that wine drinkers stick with a fruity Sauvignon Blanc to complement the crab meat’s subtle flavor.

1822 Aliceanna St; 410-675-2080; www.pierpointrestaurant.com

KOCO’S PUB

Joanna Kocovinos and her daughter Marcella Knight are the women behind the behemoth crabcake at this casual, come-as-you-are Lauraville pub, where the pocket-sized kitchen turns out 500 crabcakes a week (not including those shipped to diners across the US).

#1 Koco’s massive crabcakes weigh in at about 11 ounces, which Knight says is double the size of those found at most other restaurants.

#2 “With so little filler, people always ask what keeps it together,” Knight says. “We hand-cut bread into the tiniest cubes we can to hold it all together, using about 70 loaves of bread a week.”

#3 The unfussy mix of jumbo lump crab meat seasoned with Old Bay (mixed by hand so it doesn’t break apart) is the star. “It’s all about keeping it simple and not doing too much to it,” Knight says. But, according to Knight, the true secret is mother-daughter love — they are the only staff members who actually make the cakes.

#4 “French fries and homemade coleslaw are the classic sides. And we suggest a Natty Boh or one of the restaurant’s margaritas — our other claim to fame,” Knight says.

#5 The paper plates are a testament to the tavern’s no-frills style. “And don’t worry — they’re eco-friendly,” assures Knight.

Closed Sunday and Monday; 4301 Harford Rd; 410-426-3519; www.kocospub.com

CURIOUS CRABS

Try some of the more unusual preparations around town.

Infuse your breakfast with some crabby goodness at B&O American Brasserie, where the B&O Crab Benedict features a crabcake, egg and arugula atop an English muffin served with chili hollandaise sauce. 2 N Charles St; 443-692-6172; www.bandorestaurant.com

Enjoy a redux of the classic club with Miss Shirley’s Chesapeake Club, a towering stack of crabcake, shrimp salad, applewood-smoked bacon, tomatoes, avocado and Old Bay remoulade. Two locations; www.missshirleys.com

John Shields uses crab meat direct from the Chesapeake Bay in his dishes at Gertrude's, located at the Baltimore Museum of Art. It truly shines in the Back Creek Inn Crab Quiche, which perfectly blends crab meat, eggs and a hint of sherry. 10 Art Museum Dr; 410889.3399; www.gertrudesbaltimore.com

East meets west meets the Chesapeake at Talara, the Harbor East ceviche joint serving the standout Crabcake Chili Relleno, featuring a poblano pepper stuffed with lump crab meat then fried tempura style. 615 S President St; 410-528-9883; www.talarabaltimore.com