Battle Of The Burgers

Where to get the best hamburger in the place that claims to have invented it

THERE’S MUCH debate over who invented the hamburger, but any trueblooded Akronite will tell you the classic sandwich was the brainchild of locals Frank and Charles Menches.

As the story goes, the brothers were vendors at the 1885 Erie County Fair in Hamburg, NY, and upon running out of sausage for sandwiches, they used beef instead. Akron’s hamburger legacy continues today through a slew of local restaurants — including Menches Brothers — and the National Hamburger Festival, which attracts more than 25,000 people every July. My goal? To sink my teeth into the area’s best burger.

I enlist the help of world eating champion and National Hamburger Festival co-founder Coondog O'Karma. His tall, trim build belies his profession — and his Mohawk makes him easy to spot. We decide to hunt for the area’s finest plain cheeseburger — no veggies or special sauces, just simply bun, patty and cheese.

Our first stop is a relative newcomer to the local burger scene. A fast-food-style restaurant in Akron’s Highland Square, Metro Burger prides itself on burgers made to order with more than 33 million possibilities. We stick to the plan, marking our orders at the counter on the provided sheets. We opt for a 1/3-pound patty (the smallest option), and Coondog quickly devours it. He likens the plain burger to a diamond — even unpolished, it’s good on its own. “It melts in your mouth,” he says. “I think I could go for four or five more.” I remind him we still have three burgers ahead of us.

As far as iconic drive-ins go, Skyway and Swensons have a well-documented rivalry in Northeast Ohio, even appearing on the Food Network’s Food Feuds. They both feature carhops who deliver your order right to your car — complete with a tray that attaches to the window. We hit Skyway first, and the burger — skimpier than Metro’s, a bit dry, with oily cheese — doesn’t overwhelm us. Swensons’ burger is also on the small side, but the rich, milky cheese and the sweetness of the patty more than make up for it. On the way to our last stop, Coondog and I agree that Food Feuds host Michael Symon had it right: Swensons tops Skyway.

The excitement builds as we approach the final stop — and last year’s National Hamburger Festival “Best Cheeseburger” winner: Menches Brothers. This family-friendly sit-down restaurant serves up healthysized burgers, made just like they were back in 1885. “It overflows the bun,” Coondog says. “I like that.” It’s got the mass, but the taste is unlike any burger I’ve ever tried — and for me, that’s not a good thing. Rumor has it that a touch of coffee is the secret to the distinctive flavor in the chewy patty, but when I ask a server, her lips remain sealed.

After tasting all four options, Coondog puts Metro Burger at the top of the list, thanks to its hefty size and juicy flavor; Swensons is a close second. I’m torn between the two, but finally decide that if it’s gourmet toppings like brie and caramelized onions I want, then Metro Burger is the place. But for a plain yet sweet burger, I'm heading to Swensons — and I'm definitely washing it down with the signature California (ginger ale, grape syrup and lemon over crushed ice). What can I say, I’m a sucker for nostalgia.

METRO BURGER 845 W Market St, Akron 330-253-8743; www.metroburger.com

SKYWAY Three Akron area locations; www.skywaydrive-in.com

SWENSONS DRIVE IN Two Akron and two Canton locations; www.swensonsdriveins.com

MENCHES BROTHERS Two Akron-Canton area locations; www.menchesbros.net