The Sound of the Underground
In New York City, riding the subway means more than getting from point A to point B. More often that not, it's an in-your-face experience in local culture and color.
© TIMOTHY A. CLARY/GETTY IMAGES
A middle-aged gentleman is lost in his novel; a young woman in workout clothes swigs from a bottle of water; a family of four talks loudly about their upcoming visit to the Museum of Natural History. It’s a typical afternoon on the New York City Subway. Typical, that is, until a trio of streetwise kids bound onto this uptown A train and shout “It’s showtime!” A boom box blasts the opening notes of The Sugarhill Gang's classic “Apache,” and they launch into a precisely choreographed break-dancing routine, weaving between people and poles. Contorted kicks and sensational spins bedazzle commuters within the tight confines of the subway car, and they respond with a flurry of applause and small donations. Or most of them do, at least. One passenger's gaze remains welded to his iPhone throughout the performance, even though it’s unfolding barely two feet from his face — proof that even captive New Yorkers make for a tough crowd.
But for those willing to put Angry Birds and newspapers momentarily on hold, the city’s transport network is a veritable variety show of song-and-dance routines, a mobile theater where admission is free and you're always in the front row. Keep an eye peeled and an ear open as you navigate the subway lines and platforms, and you'll be treated to some of the best New York has to offer.
Head up to Harlem, where it’s almost impossible not to stumble upon a performer keeping the area’s rich musical tradition alive—like gospel singer Arlethia Lindsey, who performs weekly on the 125th Street platform, just around the corner from The Apollo Theatre. The natural echo of the station walls amplifies her self-penned songs to beautiful effect, and her habit of singing directly at passersby translates into donations. But it’s her impeccable voice that is Arlethia’s main asset. “I sing wherever I can,” she says. “I like to sing on the subway once a week, because it’s good practice.”
Another performance hotspot is Union Square Station on 14th Street—one of the city’s busiest hubs, where the music extends above ground, too. If you see a large crowd gathered, chances are it’s Float Master John at the center of the excitement. He and his crewmembers perform hip-hop dance-offs, incorporating everything from a chain of human robots to a quick succession of eye-watering leg splits. But today, they're victims of their own success. As onlookers join the growing crowd around them, security guards from a nearby store ask them to disperse.
“That always happens, but it doesn’t bother us,” explains John. “We’re not looking for trouble, so we’re always ready to split.”
Indeed, their setup is minimal; they don’t even bother using linoleum to dance on (hence their scuffed clothes and grazed knees) and only have a small boom box and a laptop for equipment. Ousted, John eyes a vacant spot barely twenty yards across the street, and five minutes later, they’re headlong into a new routine.
But Manhattan’s most vibrant scene is still farther downtown, where pop-up performances are king. And it’s at the West 4th Street stop that you’re likely to find saxophonist Austin Becker, drummer Francesco Cinigilo and stand-up bassist Jonathan Michel, who are playing as a slick jazz trio today. They’re tightly syncopated and have a chemistry that’s obvious to the gathering crowd. It's all the more surprising, then, to learn that this morning was the first time they ever played together. “We know each other informally because we all play around the city,” explains Michel. “There are some sweet spots where you can make $100—maybe more—in a day. It’s not so much if there are three of you, but if you’re on your own, it adds up. I play in jazz clubs, but I know lots of cats who play in subways six or seven days a week, and that’s how they make rent. They don’t even bother with clubs—and they’re some of the best players I’ve ever heard!”
Like everything in New York, the standards are high, even for subway performers. Here, nothing is ever what it seems: a commute can become a performance, a dreary wait an unforgettable experience. Just remember to occasionally take your headphones off, or you could be missing out on some true—and free —New York City culture.
THE HOTSPOTS
125th Street Station
(A/C/D)
Harlem is still abuzz with the music that's made it famous for decades. Hip-hop freestylers, breakdancers, jazz musicians and soul and gospel singers are abundant. But it’s the percussionists, who bang away on everything from worn-out drum kits to upturned buckets, who get the best crowd responses.
59th St-Columbus Circle
(A/B/C/D/1)
Numerous entrances and plentiful space make Columbus Circle a magnet for musicians, but the mood here, not too far from the cultural vortex of Lincoln Center, is generally calm. Expect jazz pianists, classically trained symphony musicians and singer-songwriters serenading you on the platforms here.
14th Street-Union Square
(L/N/Q/R/4/5/6)
As one of Manhattan’s busiest subway junctions, almost any genre of music can be heard echoing in this station’s web of tunnels. Whether you're in the mood for traditional Mariachi or classic rock performed by a xylophone duo, walk around here long enough and you're sure to get your wish.
MUSIC UNDER NEW YORK (MUNY)
The MTA’s official performance program sponsors talented musicians (each must audition) that include classical violinists, Cajun cellists, opera and folk singers, and even a few playing Senegalese koras, Andean pipes and Aboriginal didgeridoos. The goal is to have the performers and their music reflect the culture and diversity of the people of New York City. Currently, the program — which was established in 1985 by the MTA Arts For Transit — sponsors more than 200 artists who put on 150-plus weekly performances at 25 locations throughout the transit system. Special events in the transit system include the Blues Festival, Divas Underground, Summer Solstice and a Jazz Festival. For more information visit mta.info/mta/aft
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