Midnight Meals
A centuries-old tradition gets a modern makeover at these New Orleans establishments.
ARNAUD’S
If you have late-night food cravings, réveillon is your kind of tradition. This nocturnal meal is a Creole custom generally served to friends and family returning from midnight Mass on Christmas Eve — the name derives from the French “to wake,” since diners stay up late for it. In recent years, réveillon has become a good excuse for New Orleans restaurants to prepare festive prix-fixe feasts throughout December — often updating ancient dishes with local ingredients and contemporary twists.
Here are a few places to taste the tradition for yourself. Poppy Tooker, a Louisiana food historian and host of the public radio show “Louisiana Eats!,” gives us the dish on the very best local dishes.
BRENNAN’S
417 Royal St; 504-525-9711; www.brennansneworleans.com
Grillades and Grits: “Grillades and grits were always featured at post-midnight Mass réveillon dinners. Tender veal, slowly simmered in a classic Creole tomato gravy, is served over creamy grits.”
The Twist: It’s more like grits with a boneless osso buco.
Prix-Fixe Continued: Oyster soup, eggs Hussarde (poached, with Canadian bacon), bananas Foster
You’ll Drop: $60
ALBERTINE’S TEA ROOM
At The Columns Hotel 3811 St Charles Ave; 504-899-9308; www.thecolumns.com
Calas: “An ancient rice cake recipe that came from South Africa with the rice-growing slaves, calas are much like the better-known beignets and are often eaten for breakfast.”
The Twist: They’re served dessert-style, with powdered sugar.
Prix-Fixe Continued: Fillet with parsnip puree, trout amandine with wild rice, coquilles St. Jacques
You’ll Drop: $46
AMERICAN SECTOR
945 Magazine St; 504-528-1940; www.nationalww2museum.org
Mirlitons: “Mirlitons are best known as chayote squash, but kept their French Creole name after migrating to New Orleans from Haiti in the 1700s. They’re most often seen as a baked dish with shrimp and crab. You can best appreciate their subtle flavor when pickled.”
The Twist: They serve shrimp remoulade with pickled mirlitons and greens.
Prix-Fixe Continued: Duck and sausage gumbo, vol-au-vent with stewed winter fruits, sweet potato mousse with dulce de leche and pecan brittle
You’ll Drop: $45
7 ON FULTON
700 Fulton St; 504-525-7555; www.7onfulton.com
Pain Perdu: “Prepared by soaking stale bread in a rich custard before panfrying in butter, this version of French toast, served with cane syrup, is often seen today as a delicious savory appetizer dish.”
The Twist: It’s served alongside baconsmoked foie gras and topped with a caramel emulsion.
Prix-Fixe Continued: Cassoulet with Creole tomatoes, roast pheasant with celery root chips, rabbit roulades with smoked polenta
You’ll Drop: $60
ARNAUD’S
813 Bienville St; 504-523-5433; www.arnauds.com
Daube: “This Creole cousin of the Cajun hogshead cheese was made only in the cold winter months by combining leftover roast veal or beef with spicy condiments and crunchy seasoning vegetables and gelled in rich, beefy broth.”
The Twist: It’s chilled between layers of jellied consommé, with garlic croutons.
Prix-Fixe Continued: Shrimp ravigote in Creole mustard, Gulf fish courtbouillon, Bûche de Noel
You’ll Drop: $45
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