On the Right Track
A day of sightseeing along the historic St. Charles Streetcar line is a day of seeing the best New Orleans has to offer.
New Orleans is busy adding two streetcar lines to its current three in a $124 million expansion that spans nearly three miles, scheduled to open in 2012. But especially in The Big Easy, oldies are goodies, and the 7.5-mile-long original St. Charles streetcar line is still one of the most memorable ways to take in the city. Best of all, the price of a one-day, unlimited-ride “Jazzy Pass” has been cut from $5 to $3. Pick yours up at Walgreens (900 Canal St at Baronne St) and walk one block down Canal to the stop at Carondelet Street to begin your day-trip on the iconic green streetcar that’s been ferrying people down St. Charles Avenue since 1835.
8:40am: Stop 3 (Poydras St)
Between the Bread ▪ 625 St. Charles Ave; 504324-5304; www.betweenthebreadnola.com
Get a café au lait and a delicious PBJ panini to take across the street to Lafayette Square, a pretty 18th-century park (and the city’s secondoldest after Jackson Square) that has been beautifully restored since Hurricane Katrina. Across the street from the park you’ll find the Greek Revival-style Gallier Hall, the city’s former City Hall, where Mardi Gras parades stop to toast the mayor under the three-story Ionic columns.
10am:Stop 13 (Jackson Ave)
Garden District ▪ Walk towards the river (left of the streetcar) to see the Garden District’s antebellum architecture and fine houses. A great example is Anne Rice’s old mansion (1239 First St), where the author penned infamous vampire chronicles like Interview With A Vampire.
Continue down Coliseum until you reach Washington, where you’ll find Commander’s Palace (1403 Washington Ave; 504-899-8221; www.commanderspalace.com), a turquoise wedding cake of a restaurant you’ll see from miles away that serves “Haute Creole.” Don’t miss the 25-cent martinis — it may be a bit early but when in Rome.... Across from it is Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 (1400 Washington Ave), its intricate above-ground crypts a hauntingly beautiful sight to behold (the cemetery is open Mon-Fri from 7:30am to 2:30pm, Sat 7:30am to 12pm).
Now, make a right on Washington. One block up in the historic antebellum Rink building is the Garden District Book Shop (2727 Prytania St; 504-895-2266; www.gardendistrictbookshop.com), a cozy 33-year-old bookworm’s paradise that specializes in New Orleansthemed books and regional titles of all genres, many of which are signed by their authors.
When you’re done, walk one more block up Washington to streetcar stop #16.
12:45pm: Stop 27 (Robert St)
St. James Cheese Company ▪ 5004 Prytania St; 504-899-4737; stjamescheese.com. Walk towards the river for lunch at St. James, where the city’s best fromagerie offers delectable sandwiches — like the gruyere and caramelized onion confit sandwich — cheese boards, charcuterie and wines by the glass. Outside tables are coveted during nice weather.
2:30pm:Stop 37 (Audubon Park)
Audubon Zoo 6500 Magazine St; 504581-4629; www.auduboninstitute.org This stop brings you to Audubon Park, famous for its live oaks, lagoons and bird sanctuaries. A free shuttle arrives at the park’s main entrance every 15 minutes to ferry guests to the award-winning Audubon Zoo, home of white tigers and alligators and the black bears of the Louisiana Swamp Exhibit, a fantastic exhibit that depicts authentic Louisiana culture.
6pm:Stop 46 (Oak St)
Oak Street ▪ Take a left and stop halfway up the street at the stylish new Oak Wine and Bistro (8118 Oak St; 504-302-1485; www.oaknola.com) — a laidback place where wine snobs and neophytes rub shoulders — for one of over 80 wines and tapas like duck confit, pork tamales or hanger steak bruschetta.
Dinner options in the area include family-oriented Tru Burger (8115 Oak St; 504-218-5416), which has a diner feel but locally sourced fresh ingredients (the homemade jalapeño cheddar corn dogs are a must) orCowbell (8801 Oak St; 504-298-8689; www.cowbell-nola.com), where chef Brack May makes comfort food with Southern panache, like ribeye with homemade mac-n-cheese and lime-grilled local organic chicken.
When you’re done, the streetcar awaits for a nighttime tour of St Charles Avenue back to the French Quarter. Great food, history, culture, wildlife, architecture and shopping — all that for only $3. It’s no wonder that, after 176 years, NOLA keeps growing its grand old streetcar system.
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